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Paul’s father, a Frenchman who escaped the German army marching on St Malo in 1940, opened a restaurant in Stockport, England, following the end of World War II. The restaurant was based on the French model of having the mother at the front of the house and the kids peeling potatoes as soon as they were old enough. But Paul was not keen on this, and fell into the wine trade after a less-than-brilliant scholastic career.

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